Breakthrough haircare and skincare actives

INOLEX Amino Lipids: 100% natural and eco-friendly breakthrough hair care and skin care actives

The AminoSensylTM range from INOLEX is eco-friendly, high performance and 100% natural and contains two products, easily differentiated by their suffix. AminoSensylTM HC is an optimised blend for Hair Care, and AminoSensylTM SC is an optimised blend for Skin Care. This article will cover AminoSensylTM HC, and for further information on Skin Care, there is also a full-page ad in this issue for AminoSensylTM SC, highlighting its benefits in Skin Care products.

The global Hair Care category continues to demand high performance and is evolving to include diverse consumer needs. In the trend-setting Brazilian market, 43% of consumers look for damage claims and 55% look for moisturising benefits in their hair care products. Adding to the diversity of hair care product expectations, women in China are concerned with scalp health – 50% choose a conditioner with scalp care benefits. In the United States, consumers are not only focused on performance claims. Ingredient claims are very important with 28% of US consumers perceiving that natural conditioners are “better” for their hair.1 This multitude of global needs creates challenges for even the most experienced formulator.

The hair treatments and conditioners ingredient toolbox have typically centred around cationic surfactants. Conditioning cationic surfactants are used ubiquitously in rinse-off and leave-in hair care formulations to improve wet and dry combability and repair damaged hair. However, the majority of cationic surfactants used in personal care applications have environmental toxicity concerns, specifically poor aquatic toxicity profiles. They also carry skin irritation or skin corrosion labels that may be carried over into finished product formulations.2 Additionally, quats, esterquats, or amidoamines are not possible to manufacture as 100% plant-derived compositions. These conventional materials deliver performance benefits but are not able to meet the next level of consumer product needs.  

Amino Lipids bring 100% natural and eco-friendly innovation

The 12 Principles of Green Chemistry, published in 1998 by Anastas and Warner, have promoted significant advances in molecular design for improved sustainability.3 These principles guide the development of safer chemicals made from renewable feedstocks and produced with superior environmental profiles. The increased availability of renewable, bio-based alternative feedstocks has provided a pathway for innovation in the hair care category.

AminoSensylTM amino lipids are high-performance hair care ingredients, made possible by green chemistry design.  The unique and proprietary molecular design of these amino lipids incorporates a quat-free cationic head group and a readily biodegradable ester linkage, both derived from a naturally sourced amino acid. The lipophilic alkyl tail group is derived from vegetable fatty alcohols. The synthetic process is strongly aligned with the Principles of Green Chemistry. It employs a heavy metal-free, a one-pot process where the only by-product is water. The resulting amino lipids are 100% natural, non-toxic to humans and the environment, and readily biodegradable. They meet the rising consumer demand for scalp care products – safe and gentle to the skin – and natural & environmentally-friendly ingredients – 100% natural, including all manufacturing components.

The latest introduction in this space is the amino lipid Brassicyl Valinate Esylate. This 100% renewable hair care active provides a 2X increase in hair strengthening in both leave-in and rinse-off conditioning applications. It inhibits the formation of fly-aways even in low humidity environments, moisturising the hair and giving a smooth and defined appearance. Additionally, Brassicyl Valinate Esylate performs a conditioning function so it can be used as both the hair active and conditioning agent in rinse-off and leave-in formulations. Brassicyl Valinate Esylate accomplishes these high-performance hurdles due to its unique amino lipid design. The amino acid Valine provides a cationic charge for hair substantivity. Brassica alcohol provides an optimised mixture of C18 – C22 carbon chains for strengthening and conditioning performance. The resulting amino lipid delivers high performance and provides substantial benefits for both hair and scalp. This breakthrough technology provides formulators with a new ingredient that satisfies the multitude of global hair care needs: high performance, scalp benefits, natural ingredients, and environmental safety.

INOLEX’s patented AminoSensyl™ range, a portfolio of next-generation hair care and skincare ingredients, is ideal for the natural products marketplace. The amino-acid based, 100% natural, eco-friendly, and high-performance systems are based on sustainable green chemistry principles—and offer the benefits of being petrochemical-free; palm-free; quat-free4; readily biodegradable (OECD 301B); non-GMO; and free from animal testing. Each product is optimised for its respective category.

AminoSensyl™ HC is a pre-neutralised, natural hair care active system that provides higher performance and ease of formulation in hair conditioning & treatment products. The system contains the amino lipid Brassicyl Valinate Esylate, which has a non-quat cationic charge for hair substantivity and a better aquatic toxicity profile than traditional conditioning or strengthening hair care ingredients. AminoSensyl™ HC delivers significant strengthening, conditioning, smoothness, and definition in hair applications.

AminoSensyl™ SC is a natural formulation system designed for all-natural, luxury skincare products that are gentle to skin and eyes. The patented amino lipid technology enables self-emulsifying formulations that stabilise high oil loads and deliver a soft, velvety aesthetic. The system combines the primary active cationic structuring agent, Brassicyl Valinate Esylate, with the nonionic structuring agents, Brassica Alcohol and Brassica Glycerides, in an optimised ratio for ease of formulation.

Get in touch with us

A S Harrison & Co offers the range of Inolex AminoSensyl™ amino lipid technology – for more information and samples please contact your A S Harrison & Co account manager or email or call us on +61 (0)2 8978 1016


1. R. Di Gesu. A Year of Innovation in Hair Care, Mintel Report, 2018.
2. S. Gheorghe, et al. Ecotoxicological Behavior of some Cationic and Amphoteric Surfactants, (Biodegradation, Toxicity, and Risk Assessment), In Biodegradation: Life of Science, 2013, doi: 10.5772/56199
3. Anastas, P. T.; Warner, J. C. Green Chemistry: Theory and Practice, Oxford University Press: New York, 1998, p. 30.
4. Quats (Quaternary Ammonium Compounds) are known to exhibit health and environmental hazards, including aquatic toxicity. 


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